Category: valentines

March 17, 2005

Dear friends, what I thought was just a cold turned out to be sinusitis.  While I wait for the Robitussin to do its thing, here is another blast from the past, originally posted on May 18, 2004.

It is a sign of how citified I have become that a visit to my mother and stepfather's house feels like a trip to the country. It is far from rural, where they live; even though there are still pockets of undeveloped farmland, and even though they have neighbors wealthy enough to keep horses, we are still talking about suburbia. Mom and Bob live in Montgomery County, half an hour from Philadelphia, five minutes' drive from the closest train into the city, 15 minutes' drive from three other train lines, surrounded by cheesy new McMansion developments that pop up with the rapidity and subtlety of cereal bugs. There is a town center that theoretically should be an easier trip for them to make, but in the 13 years since they've moved there, the population has become so dense that driving through town has become an exercise in forehead-smiting and teeth-gnashing. It is almost a textbook example of what people in other parts of the country think of when they think of the East Coast, just wall-to-wall people. And yet, it is a respite being there. My folks were lucky enough to find a house in a development that was planned and built in the 1940's, by builders and architects who eschewed the cookie-cutter impulse that would later mark areas like Levittown (both the Long Island and sub-Philadelphia versions). The exteriors of the houses are all stone, consistent with the older houses in the area, but they don't have that patina of faux history about them, the kind I often see in mock Tudor houses. The lawns are roomy, the trees are giant and lacy and generous. My mom's azaleas were in bloom this weekend, fuchsia, light pink, white, all being shaken by bumblebees half the size of my thumb. While Mom and Lloyd and I were in the city yesterday, Bob went to the farmstand and bought the plants that would go in Mom's garden: three varieties of tomatoes, including an heirloom native to Bucks County and a San Marzano for future tomato sauces (woo-hoo!); eggplants and peppers; various lettuces, including romaine and radicchio; herbs, herbs, herbs. No matter that when I lived in what really was the country, I took our half-acre garden for granted, nothing more than an onerous weed-filled chore that kept me from following my heart's desire to go swim in the pond instead. Now my mom's little garden, a fraction of the size of our old garden, is a wonder to me. Looking out of her kitchen window and seeing little striped eggplants on the vine, I am kicked back to kindergarten, discovering that those little red roots peeking under those little green leaves are radishes and yes, they are ready to eat. Even the stuff that isn't in the garden, the oregano growing next to the patio, the mint growing kudzu-like all over the place, the wild onions that nobody but me seems to like, it's all neat to me, all the more so since I moved to a place where I can't even grow basil without it withering and dying in three weeks.

There have been two houses in my life I've considered my childhood home, even though I only had them for a short while, shorter than the house in Honesdale in which I really did grow up, which my folks built and in which we moved in 1979, right before my 12th birthday, out of which they moved in 1991, when I had already crashed and burned in New York and took them up on their offer to join them in the new Philadelphia house. I grew up in the Honesdale house, but it was not my childhood home. That honor is reserved for two places and two places only. One was the house I briefly mentioned here, a house in northeast Philadelphia that my great-grandfather built when my grandmother was a child. It was a two-family house, and generations of us came and went; my great-grandfather and great-grandmother; my maternal grandparents; my mom, my dad, my teenage uncles. I was the last generation of our family to know that house, which was acquired and torn down by the great commonwealth of Pennsylvania in the early 1970's to make way for a service road that was never built. There is a cavalcade of memory here; I won't tap it tonight because if I do, I will be up all night, and I will be too wrecked to go to LuthorCorp in the morning. But I won't let that house go without a fight. There will be more, and soon.

Unlike the house in Philadelphia, the other house is still standing, in this little town. (#7 or higher will show you where we were in relation to the larger world.) It is not, however, the house I knew. I haven't seen the house in 15 years; even then, it had been almost 10 years since we'd lived there, and when I drove by it, I could hardly recognize it. Since we moved out, the house had changed hands three times. All of our fruit trees were gone. The pond was long dead, covered with algae. The little barn where we had kept our chickens and my pet rabbit had been torn down. The front yard was bisected by a concrete walkway. The new owners thought it would be nice to plant some flowers out front, which it was; less nice was the wooden cutout, painted to look like a fat lady bending over in the garden. I am a big fan of folk art of the windmill and whirligig persuasions, but for the life of me I don't know why people like those fat-lady things so much.

I know that we have a tendency to burnish the better moments of our childhoods until they attain a mythic status far beyond anything that the reality could hope to attain. I remember plenty that was difficult about living in such an isolated area, so far to the north. I remember being unable to make concrete plans to do anything between the middle of October and the end of April. You could have every intention of taking your family to Florida, but if three feet of snow fell the day before you had to leave for the airport, then you'd better just sit back and put on another sweater, because babe, you aren't going anywhere. I remember sporadic tv reception and the intermittent failure of our phone service. I remember playing in the backyard and being startled by a night crawler the size of a snake. I remember seeing a snake the size of a snake attach itself by the fangs to my mom's ankle. I remember a period of hot dry summer weather where I rode my bike as fast as I could in dried-up creek beds by the side of our road. One day I took a hill too fast and wiped out; after I surveyed my dusty bloody self, I determined that I was okay to ride, but I would probably forsake the creek bed for the road. On the road, less than 15 feet from where I'd wiped out, I happened to glance into the creek bed and saw a fierce eye staring back at me. Had I kept riding in the creek bed, I would have run right into the biggest snapping turtle I'd ever seen. I was petrified of snappers, thanks in large part to apocryphal horror stories told to me by the mean boys in my class. One day I was swimming in the pond with the kids from the dairy farm up the road. The oldest daughter, four years older than me, started screaming that she saw a snapper in the pond. I was eight, just learned to swim that summer, floating on an innertube in the deep water in the middle of the pond. I knew then that I would lose a leg. Maybe both legs. I was too frightened to even thrash. I didn't want to lose a leg. As it turned out, she had mistaken an old discolored piece of Tupperware, embedded in the pond floor, for a snapper. I was so relieved that I didn't even bother to ask her how she could have mistaken a Tupperware for a snapper.

However big a fraidy cat that I was -- and I was a *big* fraidy cat -- I loved that house. The original house had been built in the 18th century. This meant that there was no baseboard heat in the bathroom, kitchen, dining room, study (which became my room after my brother was born) and my old bedroom (which became bro's room). During a visit from my grandparents one weekend, my grandmother discovered there was ice on the inside of my windows, and within 24 hours I had a new electric blanket. The old house was heated by a Franklin stove, which my parents taught me how to fire. In the 1950's the owners at the time had an addition built onto the house, a new living room (with a picture window facing the side yard and our pond) and bedroom (this was my parents' room). The pond, simply put, was a kid's dream; swimmable in summer, skatable in winter, ringed by willow trees from which my friends and I tried to swing into the pond, never with any success. When my stepdad put the pond in, he had it stocked with fish, mostly sunnies, but we had some big fish, too, and I was encouraged to try to catch them. Our neighbors up the road had a dairy farm, 27 cows, a flat field for pasture and a steep hilly field that made for perfect sledding. While some of my harshest winter memories come from that house -- whenever I saw frost on the grass when I woke up in the morning, I knew that would be the kind of cold that hurt all of my exposed skin -- some of my best winter memories come from the same place. I remember walking outside one gray morning, seven inches of new snow on the ground, snowflakes the size of quarters, absolute stillness, trees looking like sparkling sugar. Even as I knew my parents were inside the house, and our neighbors were up the street, I felt as if I were the only person around for hundreds of miles.

I can't even think of how well we ate, what was at our fingertips, without edging close to tears. We had our garden, of course. We had two apple trees in our front yard. One day the cows from up the street broke through the electric fence, which had become de-electrified, and they walked the 1/8 mile to our house and settled themselves in our front yard, noshing on the apples. Eventually they went home, with great reluctance, the farmer and his kids prodding them (figuratively!) all the way. I didn't blame the cows for not wanting to go home. Those apples were wonderful. We also had wild red raspberries and blackberries ringing us for miles, and a pear tree in our side yard. Because the pears were so small and hard, I thought they were inedible ornamentals. Now I know that those "ornamentals" were actually Seckel pears, and every time I pay $2.00/pound for them at the farmer's market, I want to kick my own self in the head. We ate bacon from our own pigs. We had free-range, cage-free eggs before I even knew what free-range was. I never ate an egg that was more than two days old. I drank unpasteurized milk with a line of cream across the top, cream so thick that we had to thin it with a little milk to whip it properly.

I have no interest in going back in time, or in moving back to a place that doesn't exist anymore, but I do miss my childhood home, I do, I do. Last summer I was lucky enough to be invited to a friend's house in the country. The house was built at approximately the same time as my old home had been built, and I almost cried when I saw the antique door latches on every door. Sure, they were just door latches, but they were such a fixture, literal and figurative, of our old house, they were so embedded in my memory, that the sight of them, the feel of them in my hand, kicked me right back to our house, one of the two best houses I'd ever lived in. I never thought I would see another latch like that again, and I felt so thankful that I had the chance to see them one more time.

Posted by Bakerina at 12:17 AM in valentines • (5) Comments • (0) Trackbacks
March 15, 2005

She was in fact perfectly familiar from his last night's studies, yet as he led Stephen up and down the ladders, along the decks and into the holds he kept exclaiming 'Oh what a sweet little ship!  What a sweet little ship!' And when they were on the forecastle again, looking back towards Batavia, he said 'Never mind the paintwork Stephen; never mind the masts; a few weeks' work in the yard will provide all that.  But only a brilliant hand with noble wood at his command -- you saw those perfect hanging knees? -- could produce such a little masterpiece as this.'  He considered for a while, smiling, and then said, 'Tell me, what was the title poor Fox tripped over during our first audience of the Sultan?'

'Kesegaran mawar, bunga budi bahasa, hiburan buah pala.'

'I dare say.  But it was your translation of it that I meant.  What was the last piece?'

'Nutmeg of consolation.'

'That's it: those were the very words hanging there in the back of my mind.  Oh what a glorious name for a tight, sweet, newly-coppered, broad-buttocked little ship, a solace to any man's heart.  The Nutmeg for daily use:  of Consolation for official papers.  Dear Nutmeg!  What joy.'

-- Patrick O'Brian, The Nutmeg of Consolation

Nutmeg

(With thanks to 'mouse, who always gives me something wonderful to read.)

Posted by Bakerina at 08:03 PM in valentines • (7) Comments • (0) Trackbacks
March 11, 2005

Make_a_wish_1

Little darling, I feel that ice is slowly melting.  I'm as busy as a spider spinning daydreams, I'm as giddy as a baby on a swing.

Posted by Bakerina at 11:01 PM in valentines • (12) Comments • (0) Trackbacks
February 15, 2005

Love_001

Note:  This post is dedicated to the lovely Moira, who knows why.  wink

I can hear you now.  Eeeeek!  Is it supposed to look like that?  Not quite.  The middle is supposed to sink like that, but the top is not supposed to be all broken and pathetic-like.  Granted, it *is* a fragile cake, one that must be decanted from the pan with care, but this is more damage than can be attributed to careless handling.  My hunch is that the oven was not quite hot enough, and the middle of the cake did not set properly, while the sides got a bit overbaked.

The cake in question is called a Trianon, and was the specialty of the late, much-lamented Patisserie Colette on 3rd Avenue and 66th Street.  Adrianne Marcus, author of The Chocolate Bible (the 1978 survey of chocolatiers across the U.S. and around the world, not the Christian Teubner cookbook), called the Trianon the best chocolate cake in the world.  Lora Brody's memoir Growing Up on the Chocolate Diet includes a wonderful chapter on her obsession with the Trianon, from her insistence that her husband pick up the cakes because she was terrified of Colette, to her years of recipe testing, trying to crack the code on the cake, to the dinner party that finally yielded her the recipe.

I can still hear you.  So it's not very pretty...how does it taste?  I baked this cake on Thursday night.  We finished it tonight.  It tasted like a dream made real.  I keep forgetting that a drab and unassuming package can be a real beauty on the inside.  Silly me.

Edit:  It was disingenuous of me, was it not, to try to post a chocolate cake picture without divulging the recipe?  Sorry about that, dear friends.  In response to the lovely bunni, who asked how the cake got its name, I'm afraid that I must take the "must do more research!" plea.  I believe that the cake was Colette's own creation and Trianon was the proprietary name she used, but as to why she named the cake as she did, I cannot say.  Yet.  smile

Once again, the recipe comes from Growing Up on the Chocolate Diet by Lora Brody, but the words are mine.  And yes, that's not a typo:  you really do need 10 ounces of butter.  Yes, that's 2 1/2 sticks.  Just remember that you're not going to eat the whole cake in one sitting -- well, hopefully, you're not -- and that this is a perfect thing to take to a dinner party where you are serving, in Lora Brody's words, "12 normal people or 8 chocomaniacs."

Trianon

12 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped fine

10 ounces (2 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter

1 cup (7 oz.) granulated sugar

5 extra-large eggs, separated

pinch salt

1 cup (4 oz. [sift flour into measuring cup and level off with knife to get 4 oz.]) flour**

** The original recipe calls for 1 cup of cake flour.  Cake flour is a soft (low-protein) flour that has been bleached with benzoyl peroxide.  The bleaching is meant to help strengthen the gluten against the weakening properties of the butter and chocolate.  I hate bleached flours of all stripes, and I am squeamish at the thought of eating something treated with benzoyl peroxide, which is an active ingredient in acne medications, so I substitute pastry flour, which is unbleached and has a comparable protein content (9% vs. 8% for cake flour).  If you only have all-purpose flour (11.7% protein content), go ahead and use it.  Any Trianon is better than no Trianon.  smile

Preheat your oven to 325 degrees F (Gas Mark 3) and place a rack in the center of the oven.  Butter an 8-cup loaf pan, line the bottom with parchment and butter the parchment.

In the top of a double boiler, over gently simmering water, melt the butter and chocolate together.  When both are melted, add the sugar and stir in with a wire whisk.  Cook for 2 minutes.  Whisking all the while, add the egg yolks one at a time.  Remove from heat.

Beat the egg whites, together with the pinch of salt, in a mixer until they form firm but soft peaks (i.e. you don't want stiffly-beaten whites; they should still be shiny and hold a peak, but not a stiff one.  If your whites start to resemble cottage cheese and won't hold a peak, you've overbeaten them and will need to start with 5 new egg whites). 

Stir about 1/4 of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten it a bit.  Pour the chocolate mixture over the egg whites and fold until everything is almost (but not completely) amalgamated.  Sift the flour over the chocolate, a third at a time, and fold in.  Try not to knock out too much air, but be sure that all the flour has been amalgamated.

Pour the chocolate into the loaf pan and set the pan in the oven.  Bake for 50 minutes (check the cake after 30 to be sure it's not overbrowning; if it is, cover it with a piece of foil.) The cake is done when it has risen over the pan about 1 inch, and is thoroughly baked; it should not wiggle if you shake the pan gently.  Turn the oven off and let the cake sit in the oven for one more hour.

Take the pan out of the oven and let the cake cool completely.  Decant the cake by placing a cookie sheet over the top of the cake, carefully flipping the pans over and removing the cake pan.  You may want to pass a thin knife around the pan before flipping -- this is a good idea.  Peel the parchment off the cake bottom and carefully turn the cake over, for it is quite fragile.  If you can, wrap it in plastic and foil and let sit for 24 hours.  If you are serving right away, just be prepared for a bit of crumbliness when you slice it.

 

Posted by Bakerina at 11:54 PM in valentines • (20) Comments • (0) Trackbacks

Love_003

What a lucky woman I am, dear friends.  I now have a Molly Goatwax original valentine to call my own.  Is this not beautiful?  Thank you, dear Molly.

In other PTMYB news, Lloyd is headed to the doctor tomorrow.  Two weeks ago, he had what we thought was an allergy attack, which became a low-grade sinus infection (which he gets from time to time, and which always disappears on its own), which has now turned into ringing of the ears, a ripping cough and what we hope is not conjunctivitis in both eyes.  He spent the weekend in terrible pain, and I felt so powerless to help him.  When he gets better, I am buying him the biggest box of chocolates allowable by law.

Posted by Bakerina at 12:30 AM in valentines • (8) Comments • (0) Trackbacks
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