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Sunday, June 11, 2006

I am aware that it is an evil thing to plant such a stubborn earworm into your heads, dear friends, when I could just have easily said that I'm going on vacation at the end of the week.  But hell, that would have been easy.  Besides, the writing slump/existentialism virus has been stubborn this year, and so I find myself seizing on any little nugget of inspiration I can find, no matter how misguided or embarrassing.  Ain't too proud to beg.

After two months of waiting very, very patiently, I am now four days away from flying to Denver, where Snow will pick me up and drive me to Snowballville for a week's rest and highlarity, which includes a weekend at the Estes Park Wool Market in the company of Snow, Carole, Margene, Kristi and a veritable plethora of new friends.  Without giving too much away, I can confirm that we are all going to have something swell for dinner on Saturday night, although I'm casting a nervous eye at the Weather Channel, wondering if it's such a good idea to keep the oven running for a long time.  I wonder if anyone would object if we just had pie for dinner.

This is my first proper vacation of the year, and the first time off I've had since the day I went to the DMV in March.  I am overdue a proper holiday, and it shows.  I have spent much of the year in a weird, underachieving, sleepwalking state, and as we move closer to summer, it has only become worse.  It is this state that has caused me to forget my manners, namely in neglecting to mention by name the folks who provided such fabulous company at Sam's New York foodbloggers' roundup at the Hudson.  (Let's rectify this now:  in addition to our lovely hostess and her companion, the famous Fred, and my fabulous pals Julie and Luisa, I was lucky enough to meet the Chocolate Lady at In Mol Araan; Ann at A Chicken in Every Granny Cart; Josh at The Food Section, his wife Danielle and their daughter Anya; Roboppy at The Girl Who Ate Everything; Jen at Cookin' in the 'Cuse (whose description of tea at the White Dove Tea Room makes me want to drive to Syracuse *right now*); Meg at Megnut; and Adam at The Amateur Gourmet.  The afternoon passed in such a happy blur of chocolate, more chocolate and an extortionately-priced-but-tasty strawberry caipirinhas, that exact details of our conversations are eluding me right now, but I do remember that Meg, Adam and Adam's fella Craig were extremely patient and forbearing as I yammered on about the history of eggs in baking.  Thank you all for not bouncing your drinks off my head.)  It is also this state that leads me to make decisions like buying twenty pounds of fruit on a weekend that falls between a business trip and a Monday morning 8:30 a.m. customer presentation, and turning it into 40 jars of jam.  And it is the state that leads me to flirt with baking disaster, the kind about which I am philosophical and understanding when it happens to other people, but which I see as a sign of impending doom when it happens to me.

Normally when I make something in large quantities, any desire I have to actually eat tends to pall about two-thirds of the way through the task, but with this jam, I found that the more finished jars I stacked up in the kitchen, the more I wanted to have this jam on something.  We were out of bread; by the time I was done, I was too exhausted to even think of mixing up bread dough (I only had the strength to join Lloyd in a double feature of Drink-Drank-Drunk and Sunset Boulevard); and we were out of soda crackers.  As I was falling asleep, it hit me:  Biscuits.  For breakfast.  Buttered biscuits with rhubarb and strawberry jam.

Although I really love biscuits -- they were one of the first things I learned how to bake, and I always get a little thrill when I see them on restaurant menus -- I tend to take them for granted.  They're easy to make, fast to bake, nearly impossible to screw up, and equally good in their sweet and savory forms.  I have a library full of biscuit recipes, but I tend to rotate among three of them:  the recipe from More Home Cooking by Laurie Colwin, with buttermilk replacing the milk; the recipe on the back of the Bakewell Cream tin, with buttermilk replacing the milk; and the recipe for Angel Biscuits from Shirley Corriher's Cookwise.  Then a certain friend of mine made some noise about the best biscuits ever, and I knew I was helpless.  I also knew that there would be no question of subbing buttermilk for the sweet milk for which the recipe calls, as 'mouse and I have had spirited discussions on making substitutions in recipes one has not previously tried.  I'm too stubborn to concede the point to him in general, but even in my most cantankerous mood, I would not screw around with a man's best biscuit recipe.  smile

If you have ever made biscuits, you know the rhythm:  dry ingredients in a bowl, mix, mix, mix, cold butter, cut into chunks and rubbed into the dry ingredients until they take the texture of coarse cornmeal, add milk and stir just until thoroughly blended, turn out and knead a couple of times with a very light hand, roll or pat the dough out, cut, cut, cut, and into a hot oven with the lot of them.  Because I like to avoid a tough biscuit at all costs, I usually use a 50-50 mix of all-purpose flour and pastry flour for my biscuits (and my pie crusts), and I did so here.  Even with the pastry flour, I spied a tiny little amount of spring to the dough, a sign that it was developing gluten, getting springy and resilient, a precursor to tough, chewy biscuits.  Since letting the dough rest is a good way to keep it from getting overworked, I decided to cover the dough and wash a few dishes.  As I washed the dishes, still pleasantly absorbed in the kitchen dance, I thought about how, with the exception of those nasty biscuits in a tube you find in supermarket refrigerator cases, I had never had a truly awful biscuit, not even at fast food restaurants.  I thought about the tanginess of commercial buttermilk biscuits, and whether it really comes from buttermilk or just a surfeit of salt, and whether those biscuits are even made with butter anymore, or do they use butter-flavored shortening, when the realization fell like an asbestos curtain, smacking me roundly in the head.  Butter.  I had mixed the dry ingredients together, then had mixed in the milk, turned the dough onto the board and kneaded it.  No wonder it was starting to spring back.  I hadn't provided that extra layer of insurance against excessive gluten development by blending in the butter.  Moreover, I couldn't do it now.  It was too late.  Everything was mixed in.

Fortunately, I had enough of everything except pastry flour to make another batch.  Into the garbage went the old biscuit dough.  Into the bowl went more flour (all all-purpose flour, this time) and salt and sugar and baking powder and cream of tartar.  This time I remembered the butter, and this time I was rewarded with a dough good enough to eat raw, although I am happy to report that I did not, save for a little taste to make sure the seasoning was correct.  I rolled the dough, cut out 15 little biscuit rounds, baked them to blondness after 12 minutes, decided to keep them in the (turned-off) oven for a few minutes to get a little bit more browned, and there we were:  we had the world's best biscuits for breakfast -- non-buttermilk-version, anyway wink -- and a jar of a fairly decent jam to put on top of them.

It was not until hours later, when I was stealing another extra biscuit from the breadbox, that I realized that the dough I had so unceremoniously thrown out, the butterless dough, had the basic structure of naan dough, and had I thought to heat up a cast-iron skillet at the same time I had turned on the oven, I could have had biscuits and a rather nice naan for lunch.

Vacation, all I ever wanted.  Vacation, have to get away.

Biscuits_001

Edit:  If you have ordered jam from Bakerina Kitchens this weekend, and are wondering if it will be shipped before I head to Colorado:  have no fear.  Bakerina Kitchens takes its fulfillment details seriously.  smile  If you would like to place an order and have it shipped this week, please send it by 7 a.m. (EDT) on Wednesday, June 14, and I will ship it before I leave.  Otherwise, I will be glad to resume shipping after I return to New York on the 21st.  Either way, thanks to everyone who has ordered, joined the mailing list and/or offered advice and encouragement.  You gladden a bakerina's heart, you really do.

Posted by Bakerina at 07:19 PM in stuff and nonsense • (2) Comments • (0) Trackbacks

Hey, nmiguy.  Long time no see. 

New jobs should be celebrated with new jam ordered from Bakerina Kitchens.  It’s all the rage lately.

mouse on 06/14/06 at 10:00 PM  

Once again, bountiful thanks to everyone who was nice enough to come over and comment.  (And nmi, I’m so glad to see you.  I tried to send you an e to that effect, but my email bounced back—then again, it *was* off the work server.  We will catch up when I get home, m’love, I promise.)

I was hoping to have a nice au revoir post for all y’all, but as my car to the airport will be here in twenty minutes, I guess I’m going to have to save it for when I get to Colorado.  One way or another, we will find each other.  (Feel free to insert your favorite Last of the Mohicans quote here. smile

Bakerina on 06/15/06 at 10:42 AM  
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