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Sunday, January 04, 2004

Yet Another Reason to Thank Lloyd:  Two of the last people in the New York City metropolitan area who hadn’t yet seen ROTK saw it this morning.  Funny how 3 1/2 hours flies when you’re having fun.  And I was having fun, if you define fun as “crying like a baby at the displays of fellowship, fealty, melancholy and discovery depicted therein.” My face must have been shining like a diamond, because the people leaving the theatre during the credits gave me a wide, wide berth.  I blew my nose, dried my tears, took Lloyd’s hand and together we emerged into the grey rainy light of Steinway Street.  We stopped at Rizzo’s for thin-crust Sicilian pizza, our usual post-movie ritual.  We walked hand-in-hand down 30th Avenue.  I had the strongest urge to start singing “The Boy Next Door,” but thankfully I did not.

Round about Astoria Boulevard, I said, “Well, that was really beautiful.”

“Yes, it was,” said Lloyd.

“One thing, though,” I said, “anything else we should watch today should be really silly and/or dumb.”

“Of course,” said Lloyd.

“I mean, really silly.  No life lessons at all.”

“Sure.”

“Gratuitous boobies would probably work, too,” I said.

“Oh,” said Lloyd, “those are never gratuitous.” Bless his little heart.

In the end we gave gratuitous boobies a miss, in favor of our New Statesman videos, starring Rik Mayall as Alan B’Stard.  Just what the doctor ordered.  Thanks, Lloyd.

Yet Another Reason to Yell at Google: Someone hit my page based on the search for crispy creem lady magazine.  As my friend Marge said, Homer, I don’t know what you have planned for tonight, but count me out of it.

The bittersweet just keeps on coming at PTMYB:  As I mentioned yesterday, I finally got to break in my new copy of the beautiful Lands of Plenty:  Authentic Sichuan Recipes Personally Gathered in the Chinese Province of Sichuan by Fuchsia Dunlop.  I have several Chinese cookbooks, some of which I even cook from semi-regularly (like The China Moon Cookbook by the late Barbara Tropp), but in this one, I think I’ve found something from which I could cook regularly, on weeknights, even.  This is a beautiful, special book.  Fuchsia Dunlop is a writer and East Asia specialist for the BBC World Service.  She came to Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan, in 1994 on a British Council Scholarship at Sichuan University.  While there, she and a friend were allowed to take private cooking lessons at the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine.  After completing her course at Sichuan University, she dropped in at the culinary school to say hello to her chef-instructors, who invited her to enroll in the full-time professional course.  She became one of the few women, and the first Westerner, to complete this course.  She is a peerless cook, a thorough scholar, and an enthusiastic connoisseur of this noble and glorious cuisine.

When we came home today, I was loaded for bear, all ready to tell all of you to run right out and buy this book.  I wanted to wax rhapsodic over the braised chicken with chestnuts that I made for dinner last night, chicken and chestnuts made fragrant with ginger, scallions, double-black soy sauce, brown sugar, Shaoxing rice wine (sherry works as an admirable substitute, by the way), and half a pint of the rich turkey stock that I made and froze on Thanksgiving weekend.  This is not only one of the nicest things I’ve ever made, it was also one of the easiest, with none of the exhaustive prep and frenetic last-minute activity that tends to scare people away from stir-frying.  I started writing.  I went to Amazon to pick up the link.  I blanched.

Don’t get me wrong.  The reviews were stellar.  But one of the reviewers issued a caveat:  Most, though not all, of the recipes call for Sichuan peppercorns.  I remember my friend Sue telling me that the U.S. government has banned the import of Sichuan peppercorns due to the presence of a canker in this year’s crop that ravaged orange groves in China and has the potential to do so here.  The reviewer said that the ban could be in place for decades.  I went to both the Department of Agriculture and Food and Drug Administration websites, at the end of which I felt like I had been poked repeatedly in the head.  Nothing about a decades-long import ban.  World Merchants in Seattle said only that that they would be out of stock until the new crop came in, at the earliest.  Penzeys, which has carried them for years, did not even mention them.

The question may be asked:  But Bakerina, can’t you just substitute black or white peppercorns for the Sichuan pepper?  Well, yes, you can, in the same way that you can substitute parsley for mint:  you will still get something good, but there will be a noticeable difference in flavor.  Sichuan peppercorns are their own creature.  They are spicy, not overly hot, but with slightly mouth-numbing properties, and have a distinctive, vaguely camphor-like aroma.

I would still recommend that you pick up Ms. Dunlop’s book, if not for cooking, then for the exhaustive research and beautifully-written annotations to the recipes.  There is much in here to make you smile.  The following information, new to me, made me glow on the inside:

The 23 flavors of Sichuan are:  homestyle flavor; fish-fragrant flavor; strange-flavor; hot-and-numbing flavor; red-oil flavor; garlic paste flavor; scorched chili flavor; tangerine-peel flavor; Sichuan pepper flavor; Sichuan pepper and salt flavor; hot-and-sour flavor; fragrant fermented sauce flavor; five-spice flavor; sweet fragrant flavor; fragrant wine flavor; smoked flavor; salt-savory flavor; lychee flavor; sweet-and-sour flavor; ginger juice flavor; sesame paste flavor; mustard flavor; salt-sweet flavor.

The 56 cooking methods of Sichuan are...all right, I won’t list all 56 cooking methods, but they include some shimmering, evocative terms, including “clear-steaming”, “pot-sticking”, “red-braising”, “hanging oven-roasting”, “deep-fry and receive” and my favorite, “explode-frying,” a way of fast-stir-frying, in very hot oil, foods like kidneys and poultry gizzards cut into crosshatch, so that they explode into flower-like shapes.

Thankfully, I still have some Sichuan peppercorns of my own, a little less than half a one-quart mason jar’s worth.  They are still pungent and flavorful.  I hope that by the time they are gone, I will be able to buy more.  It is entirely possible that I won’t, that it may be 20 or 30 years before I will ever taste them again.

Posted by Bakerina at 11:20 PM in valentines • (2) Comments • (0) Trackbacks

Oh, my word.  (David St. Hubbins voice) The question must be asked, who has better friends than I?  And the answer would be...none...none has friends any better than I.  (/David St. Hubbins voice)

I should clarify that there are indeed ways to get around this silliness.  Sichpeps that have been roasted and ground seem to be okay for export.  But since I am a control freak, I like to do my own roasting.

There is always, of course, ordering them via the UK (thanks, Court!) or asking a friend to bring some back in her socks from China (thanks, Jen!) or, uh, moving to Canada (uhh, Vicki, have you unpacked your sofa yet?).  smile

Jo, ever since I made reference to the obligatory rant regarding the post-Brian-Wilson Beach Boys, a/k/a “fuckin’ Mike Love,” I have been getting the most *interesting* Google hits.  I feel your pain, my love.

tris, dear heart, I promise you that one of these days I will write you something that doesn’t break your heart.  wink

Bakerina on 01/05/04 at 10:00 PM  

limine, I have been wondering that for years, but I’ve never had an answer, usually because when I make the connection between sensate food-involved people and our free-flowing emotions, people look at me as if I had lobsters growing out my head.  I *knew* I couldn’t be the only one making that connection.  Ahhhh, I am among my people now.  Happy dance.  smile

(At “My friends! You bow to no one,” I had serious joy tears.)

Bakerina on 01/06/04 at 04:50 PM  
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